Famous for its Numerals

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POSTING # IX - August XII

For some reason, I am all of a sudden feeling strongly drawn to Italy.  There are many, many beautiful sights here in Rome.

Well, maybe not this guy

The Italian portion of my trip started off  VERY well. I was met at the airport by Antonio who drives a fancy black Mercedes. The only thing he knows how to say in English is "You are very beautiful." I suspect he knows how to say that in a lot of languages. He drove me to my hotel where the two Alessandros checked me into a cool hotel on a very cool street. 

I was eager to explore, so without unpacking, I headed for the nearest piazza where there happened to be a huge crowd forming. Curious, I joined them to see what was so interesting. They were filming a movie! The crowd was five or six deep so I couldn't see much, but then I noticed that on one side of the circle they had formed was a cafe, and there was one empty chair at a table with two women. I asked if I could join them and ended up with one of the best places from which to watch the action. 

Some of you may recognize the director.

After the shoot, I walked from one groovy restaurant to the next, all around the piazza, trying to choose one.  It was difficult because they all looked great, but when one of the waiters came up to me and actually offered me his arm and escorted me to a nice table, how could I resist?  Maximo was quite charming, and in between courses, he asked me to marry him.  He actually got down on one knee.  Italian men REALLY seem to appreciate women!

All of this in the space of about four hours on my first day in Rome!

Since then, I've been walking and eating gelato and exploring and eating gelato. 

I love the way his foot hangs

Last night, I was treated to a home-cooked dinner and interesting conversation. Adriana, a friend of David's (you will no doubt meet David in the up-coming blog, but the short version is he is a friend of Shirley's, from Boise, who now lives in Italy and works as a tour guide) -- anyway, Adriana cooked an amazing, authentic Italian meal -- all organic and fresh and delicious -- which David and I enjoyed along with Adriana, her husband Jack, and their beautiful daughter, Lucy. What a treat to eat on their sixth floor terrace under a nearly full moon! 

Rome is a beautiful city, and more than anything, I'm appreciating the ancient-ness of the place and trying to come to terms with the idea that there is over 3,000 (MMM) years of history here.  Ruins are interspersed with "newer" buildings and the streets and stairways are worn with the feet of so many people over the centuries. 

And the style! Gucci, Versace, Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo. 

However, many of the buildings look about ready to fall down.  Since parking is a big problem here, I want to suggest that they get rid of this thing and build a six-level parking structure.

And now, after two months, my solo traveling comes to an end tonight. Tomorrow, I meet up with Shirley-Hurley for the remainder of the trip. Truthfully, I am ready for company. It will be great to have someone with whom to share the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of Italy.

I have been thinking of this adventure as a journey -- full of self-discovery and a time to sort through the events of my life. I wanted to use Jackson Browne's "These Days" as my song for this entry because it really fits with how I've been feeling lately, but I couldn't download it, so I will settle for giving you the lyrics.

Well I've been out walkin'
I don't do that much talkin' these days.
These days.
These days I seem to think a lot
About the things that I forgot to do...
And all the times I had the chance to.

And I had a lover.
And it's so hard to risk another these days.
These days.
Now if I seem to be afraid ... to live the life that I have made in song,
Well it's just that I've been losin' ... for so long.

Well I'll keep on movin' ...
Things are bound to be improvin' these days.
One of these days.
These days I'll sit on corner stones
And count the time in quarter tones to ten ...
Don't confront me with my failures.
I have not forgotten them.

Hmmm, I guess I'm feeling a bit introspective tonight. 

Tomorrow, with Shirley's help, the vacation part of my trip truly begins. 

Ciao!

Love, Mom/Sissy/Gaylie

Viva La France!

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POSTING  # 8 - AUGUST 9

Once again, it has been a while since I blogged. I think I left off in Bordeaux, so that's where I'll pick up again. What a beautiful city! I loved it, even though the pedestrian streets were often sidewalk-to-sidewalk with tourists, reminding me of Bourbon Street during Mardi Gras. But this is how it looks early in the morning.

The city is full of parks and squares with cool cafes everywhere, and a great place to run on the Garonne River. There was a festival on the river one day, complete with very cheesy (fromagy?) French karaoke singers.

I loved window shopping in Bordeaux. It seems that each shopkeeper tries to outdo his or her neighbors. This was a chocolate shop -- and the high heels are actually chocolate, too!




After enjoying Bordeaux for four days, I took another train to Paris where I stayed for a little over a week. I went to the Louvre VERY early in the morning, saw what I wanted to see in about 3 hours, and got out before the crowds. 

The only other museum I made time for was the insanely creative Salvador Dali. He is someone I would like to have known!

Compared to Bordeaux, the energy in Paris took some getting used to. And the prices took some getting used to as well. I went into a shop to buy hair conditioner, and on my way past one counter, grabbed a tube of lipstick -- (I know -- you're saying "Gayle? Lipstick?" I'm trying to be sophisticated!). The woman at the counter said something that sounded like "sankasankuro" and, though I thought it sounded like she said 55 Euros, I was certain I had misunderstood. Not wanting to appear stupid, I handed her what I thought was PLENTY of money -- a 20 Euro bill (not quite $30), thinking she'd give me back some change. She just stood there with her French-nail manicured hand out and one perfect eyebrow raised in a very impatient look. I said, "Combien?" and she looked me square in the eye, and in English said, slowly and loudly, as though I were not only stupid but deaf as well --" fif..ty..five..Eur...os!!"-- nearly 80 bucks! When she saw the shocked look on my face, she very condescendingly said "It's VEHHHHHHRRRRRRY gooood", and looking at my hair said, sympathetically, "Now, no more . . . fhhhhhreeeeeeezzzzz." So far, I have used the liptstick five times, which brings its cost down to about $8 per application. I need to use it several times more before I feel Okay about that part of the purchase, but my hair is now very happy.

OK -- a little about the food. One night, I walked along the Seine for about an hour and then found a promising restaurant on a little side street that wasn't overrun with tourists. There was a man playing the accordion when I arrived, and to be honest, he was the real reason I chose this place. I ordered a half bottle of  '05 Chateau de Rochemorin Bordeaux. My starter -- "Artisinal roquefort mousse with candied pears over caramelized walnuts and endive salad". My main course -- "Laquered duck breast accented with honey and spices with bourguigononne mashed potatoes". Dessert choices included "caramel floating island on creamy vanilla custard; teramisu cake with teramisu ice cream; cream puff filled with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce; coffee flavored creme brulee; warm French apple pie with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce; or warm molten chocolate cake with vanilla custard. I couldn't decide so went with the cheese sampler -- brie, camembert and roquefort. I was still full the next morning!

On my last day in Paris, I visited Jim Morrison, and some of my favorite writers at the Pere Lachaise Cemetery, a beautifully eerie city of over 300,000 deceased. Many of the crypts are works of art, tributes to the painters, writers, and musicians who are buried there.

It took me a few days to shake off the sadness I felt after spending several hours there. I guess I had gone with the idea that it was a tourist attraction, but once I began walking around and seeing banners honoring those who served France in times of war, fresh flowers, wreaths, and love notes, I came away with a deeper appreciation of the legacy they left behind.


Reluctantly, I said goodbye to France.

Sarah, Noora, Dina & Saif

What made leaving France a bit easier was the fact that from there, I flew to Basel, Switzerland to see my Swiss kids -- a visit that was far too short.They served a beautiful brunch at Sarah & Noora's apartment the day after forcing me to drink vast quantities of alcohol. And I got to see Dina before she leaves for her year abroad in Mexico. Thanks, Kids!


Stay tuned for Adventures from Italy!


Love, Mom/Sissy/Gaylie

Do These Pains Aux Chocolates Make Me Look Fat?

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POSTING  # 7 -- JULY 27

Does This Pain Au Chocolate Make Me Look Fat?

How About This?

OK -- Be honest -- THIS makes me look fat, right?

It has been a while since I've checked in. This is partly due to the fact that I could not recharge my computer, partly due to having too much fun and not enough time, and partly because I spent some time being stationary and in a more reflective state of mind. I have come to some interesting conclusions during this time and am excited to share my thoughts with you all.

But first, I want you to see how La Petite Grise and I celebrated her "birthday" -- when her odometer began once again at zero. Don't worry. I did not allow her to drive and drink.

Foie Gras

After leaving Cahors, we took our time driving through small villages, sampling the food, listening to the language and the music, and staying in some beautiful places.

My favorite hotel -- so far!

My favorite room in my favorite hotel

One day, we were detained by road blocks -- Le Tour de France passed by in a flash of colors and beautiful legs!

Because we were held up by the bike race, we stayed the night at Castelnau-de-Montmiral, a medieval city on top of a hill -- and I enjoyed an amazing 5-course meal in a tiny restaurant next to the hotel.



All in all, I believe we traveled just over 1,000 kilometers in our two weeks together.

I love this photo -- it reminds me of all the photos I have taken from the back of a horse, through its ears!

Alas, I have had to return her to her owner, Deux Chevaux Peter, a very charming man upon whom I admit I have a tiny crush! And I will miss my new Dutch friend, Marianne, who not only arranged the car for me, but took me to her house and made me feel much more like a friend than a client. Merci, Marianne! By the way, I found out that Marianne is something of a movie star. She appears in a French soap opera, playing the part of -- of all things -- a Dutch woman!

Marianne, Deux Chevaux Peter, and a petite Petite Grise they gave me as a gift!

After returning La Petite Grise, I stayed three days in her hometown of Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, where I met so many nice people, enjoyed their Farmers' Market and a great concert on the patio of my hotel. During that time, I got a sense of what life in a small French village would be like, and I have to say, I loved it! Every time I left my hotel, I saw people I had met, and was always greeted with a smile and an offer to join them. There is something gentle about the way of life here that is hard to imagine -- people taking their time over coffee -- and actually having the time to chat (gossip) with their neighbors. At the end of the day, they all get together for a drink which frequently turns into dinner and more conversation. The square is full of the sound of tinkling glasses and laughter -- lovely!

Which brings me to letting you in on my new plan. I have decided I NEED a Deux Chevaux, and I hope to convince Peter to find me one and rebuild it for me. 

And because a Deux Chevaux really needs to live in France, I have decided I need to find a converted barn to buy where I hope to live part-time. 

For those of you who have trouble picturing me living in a barn -- THIS is a converted barn!

But first, I've GOT to learn how to speak French. I've already signed up for a 4-week immersion program next May. Once I get settled, you will all know someone in France with a guest room! With any luck, this wonderful artist, Lindsay Temple, will be my neighbor. I bought this painting from her:

Lindsay and Unnamed Gentleman Who Insisted On Being in the Photo

France has really taken hold of me, in case you can't tell. I'm wanting to wear French clothes, eat French food, drink French wine, and be able to speak the language. I want to look out my living room window and see fields of sunflowers. I want to cook French food for my family and friends when they come visit. And I want to play tour guide for all of you to show you what it is I love about this place and to watch you fall in love with it, too.

So, now I am in Bordeaux, which is lovely -- kind of a mini-Paris, so I can only sort of get lost. Actually, I am never lost, but sometimes, my hotel doesn't seem to be where I left it. I try to remember that it's next to the really big, beautiful stone building and that I have to turn on the street with the groovy sidewalk cafe next to the beautiful wine store and across the street from the chocolate store and right in front of the plaza with the fountain -- but there are about 50 buildings here that fit that description, so I just wander around until I find it -- this happens every time I go out, by the way! Friday, I leave for Paris. Maybe I should invest in a tracking device before I go!

I think that catches you up. I'm going to go run along the Garonne River and find a nice Confit de Canard for dinner.

Love to all,

Mom/Sissy/Gaylie

Wine, Women & Song

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POST  #  6  --  July 15

THE WINE!

THE WOMEN!

THE SONG!

Ziggy

He's Got Hair . . . Down . . . Below . . . His Knees

Joe Co-kerrrrrrrrrhh

Kezia Jones

I've been driving from music festival to music festival -- Joe Cocker in Albi, Ziggy Marley in Montauban, and last night the Cahors Blues Festival where I heard Keziah Jones from Nigeria (along with opening acts The Cheesemakers and Mellow Blues Duo, and closing act, The Hamsters.) I'm sure you're all going, "Oh -- I LOVE The Hamsters!" 

I had planned to go back to Albi for an organ concert in the cathedral, but the roads were full of a bunch of crazy cyclists who were in a very big hurry, and I was detained for three hours and missed the concert. Le Tour de France finished six kilometers from where I had planned to stay for the night -- so I got to see part of a 6 kilometer sprint after they had ridden about 125 miles! It was very exciting when the six leaders came blasting through, but even more so, 4 or 5 minutes later, to see the rest of the pack all bunched together. Beautiful colors, legs -- WAY better than a concert!

My new travel companion, La Petite Grise, and I are in Cahors, France, home of a most amazing -- nearly black it's so red -- malbec wine. We are finding the long way to get places because driving is SO MUCH FUN! She's cute, reliable, and steady. Unlike the rest of the drivers on the road, she and I are not in a hurry, stopping to photograph cows, chateaux, walls, farmhouses -- there is so much beauty here. And because Grise is so cute, and because so many French people have fond memories of the Deux Chevaux -- their first car -- or the car their dad drove -- they don't seem to mind too much that we just put along (by the way, Deux Chevaux is two -- TWO horsepower!!). I'm very happy that she does not like to go fast and that others do not expect it of her. And she's very photogenic!

Her Gearshift comes straight out from the dash and she shifts with various combinations of halfway or all the way out. Tricky at first!

The Dashboard -- She's almost ready to start over! (I don't think it's the first time, nor will it be the last) -- We plan to celebrate.

I will confess that my car and I have had a couple of issues -- all of them my fault. Once, I left the lights on while I visited a beautiful medieval city, Conques. I came back to a dead car -- how very sad. Fortunately, she is so light, a young boy in the parking lot was able to push her backwards so I could get turned around. I coasted down the hill and she came back to life and we were on our way. Secondly, same day -- a Sunday -- we were getting low on gas. That is when I found out that gas stations are closed on Sundays, and that the self-service pumps don't like American credit cards. We found a likely station, waited until a nice man came by, and gave him cash in exchange for him using his credit card to fill the tank. And he even filled it for me! Grise likes an additive, which he knew about and put in for me as well. I suspect unleaded gas, for her, is like me drinking decaf. And the third issue -- still the same day -- the turn signal came off in my hand. Fortunately, La Grise's owner had told me how to put it back on!

I happen to think France is an amazingly beautiful country. Everywhere I look are sunflowers and haystacks waiting to be made famous by the next vanGogh or Monet.

The music festivals are in every little village this time of year and it's impossible to hit them all, but I've gotten a good mix of music from old rock 'n' roll to Reggae to Blues. The "facilities" at last night's event were a bit rough. The bathroom was unisex, with the men standing behind a half wall to do their thing, while we ladies had to walk past them to get to our own private room with this:

At least the two foot thingies are raised a bit so we don't end up with wet shoes!

Speaking of toilets -- I now have the BEST bathroom EVER! 

I have so much more to say -- I miss you all and I miss not being able to talk and laugh with you. However, they're about to throw a little blues festival in my hotel and having someone pounding away at a computer is not conducive to the mood they are trying to set. 

So, au revoir!

Love, Mom/Sissy/Gaylie